“L” is for Lambrusco

This once popular and since maligned frizzante red wine is now making something of a resurgence, and quite rightly so.  The 1980s saw the heyday for this wine, with huge success in America and also across parts of Europe.

Lambrusco came in a variety of different guises during this heyday with producers trying to cash in on it’s appeal by releasing a number of (thankfully short-lived) alternative styles including white and pink versions.

But it is in its original guise that it is most recognised – a fruity, high acid, often medium-sweet red frizzante (lightly sparkling) wine. The irony here is that traditional Lambrusco ie that drunk by the Italians is nearly always dry (secco) or off-dry (semi-secco), the sweet sickly stuff being exported across Europe….thanks very much…not!

What actually is Lambrusco and how is it made?

Synonymous with Italy, in particular the Emilia-Romagna region running across the top of the Italian peninsula south of the Po River and down to the Adriatic.  Here the gastronomy of the region, with prosciutto/parma ham, Parmigiano-Reggiano and any number of Bolognese and ragu based dishes was perfectly suited to this high acid, red-berry scented, relatively low tannin fizz.

Historically the wine was made using the ‘traditional method’ which is the same method used for Champagne with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle. Since the 1970’s however there has been a move was towards more industrial ‘tank’ production (as used for Prosecco), although it is still possible to find bottle fermented versions – look for Metodo Ancestrale.

Top tip! – if you find a Metodo Ancestrale please note the wine isn’t disgorged so it will still contain sediment and be a bit cloudy!

What I find really fascinating (and not because I am a geek!) about Lambrusco is that although named after a grape, it is actually a family of very old grape varieties and clones, with quite distinct characteristics. Which is why these days you will find many wines labelled with the specific grape name on the label.

Top tip! Although there is a lot of the more generic Lambrusco di Modena available (this is a DOC which can blend any of the Lambruschi varieties), as a rule, I tend to look for the three sub-varieties listed below. Each of these have their own DOC – each with specific rules around the % of varieties used but I won’t bore you with the details here.

Main sub-varieties

  • Lambrusco Grasparossa (aka Lambrusco di Castelvetro just to add to the confusion!) is the lowest yielding and most concentrated and is often considered the highest quality.  Deeply coloured, rich, fleshy wines with an abundance of black forest berries, spicy black pepper, crisp acidity and firm tannins.
  • Lambrusco di Sorbara – the lightest (in colour and style) and most delicate of the three varieties, fresh and fragrant with bright acidity and a dry finish. Less tannic than Grasparossa.
  • Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce  – deeply coloured, full bodied with structured tannins. Fruity and floral (with hints of violets), juicy acidity and a dry finish. 

All these wines are brilliant matches for fatty-meat dishes, the high acidity, moderate alcohols and fresh style balancing perfectly with the richness of the dishes.  One of my favourites is Villa Cialdini who have produced a thoroughly moreish Lambrusco from the Grasparossa clone, made in the traditional dry style which I love with barbequed sausages.

Please do give Lambrusco a try, you will be pleasantly surprised. Oh and yes, do serve chilled! Next up “M” is for Madeira.

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